We master embroidery on a simple sewing machine
You can embroider on any straight-line sewing machine, in which you canadjust the tension of the upper and lower threads.The most comfortable islegcentral shpulny sewing machines which free for work both hands of the embroideress. You can use old cars, inherited from your grandmothers and great-grandmothers.
Modern cars are driven by an electric motor, andwe need the machine to be a manual or foot drive.
Unfortunately, it is impossible to embroider with an electric motor! The fact is that at low speeds (with low pressure on the pedal) the motor shaft rotates irregularly, jerking. If a rheostat (a pedal-changing voltage pedal) in your typewriter ensures the slowest rotation of the flywheel and the needle movement will be smooth, without jerks, then this will be your incredible luck! My "Seagull" can not! And, frankly, I do not know of such cases when the machine with the electric drive allowed to do embroidery.And you can only embroider with a small number of revolutions of the machine, since the movement of the hoop is possible only in the intervals between the punctures of the fabric with a needle. Need a consistency of the hands and feet, which will definitely appear over time. At the very beginning, your right hand will almost always lie on the flywheel to make the needle puncture the fabric most accurately, according to the lines of the embroidery pattern.
It is very important to properly set up, prepare the machine for embroidery. Let's do it now!
Setting up the machine for embroidery
1. Remove the presser foot.
2. Lower the teeth of the fabric engine or completely remove them if in the future you will only use the machine for embroidery.
3. Adjust the tension of the upper and lower threads.
The tension of the upper thread is weaker with the embroidery than the lower one, sinceweaving threads when embroidering should be on the wrong sidefabric, and not in the middle of the fabric (s), as required when sewing. Turn the knuckle with the presser foot rod lowered counterclockwise.
The tension of the lower thread is regulated by a screw on the bobbin case.
4. Install the needle that suits you. The needle number must match the thickness of the fabric and embroidery thread.(I have a needle number 90, as I usually do embroidery on the average thickness of the fabric).
5. You will need roundhoop with a low sideand a small diameter, which should be smaller than the sleeve of the machine or equal to it, so that when embroidery is done, there is always room for the hoop to spin.
6. The embroidery pattern you want to make is best doneon water soluble stabilizer.
Using copy paper or transferring a picture to fabric using the priming method, when there is such a wonderful material as a water-soluble stabilizer, this is already the last century. Why I do not recommend these two ways?
Considering the fact that now most of the fabrics contain elastic threads in their composition, they stretch, they are just like that, without fixing with dulerin or interlining (and this, among other things, also an additional thickening of the fabric), do not seam. It is an inextensible, transparent, water-soluble stabilizer that allows you to embroider on pile and knitted fabrics!
In addition, the embroidery pattern impaled on the tracing paper, being transferred to the fabric with a special mixture of kerosene and tooth powder or blue (where would you like to take this blue?), Is a picture that you still have to guess.Since I was from the very beginning of the study of embroidery (and this was 25 years ago) I refused to pripisivaniya, I do not have photos confirming my opinion. But, by analogy, look at the photo of a skolka lace insert from the inside. Try to understand what this picture is? Scribbing around like this looks like this.
Compare now with a full-fledged pattern of weaving! It's quite another matter!
7. We blink the fabric with the printed pattern or with the baked-on stabilizer into the hoop.
On the table, put a large outer ring, on top of it - the fabric and then, applying a smaller inner ring over the fabric, press it, while pulling the fabric, be sure to observe the perpendicularity of the share and weft threads, without distortion.The tension should be very tight, like on a drum.. If the fabric is not tight enough, it will move up and down with the needle and the seam will not work. The needle does not capture the lower thread from the shuttle;skipping stitches.
Likewise, skipping of stitches occurs if they are lifted from the surface of the needle plate when the hoop is moving.
Attention! Do not forget at the beginning of worklower the presser foot! It is very important!Immediately on the seamy side, the thread starts to wind, and you do not see it, do not notice, until the breaking of stitches, the tangling of the threads becomes obvious.
And never turn the wheel in the opposite direction! There will be a thread break!
You might needweightpedal wheel to give it the necessary inertia for the passage of the "dead point". I needed it! The wheel, approaching the dead center, not having the necessary inertia for its passage, stopped and began to move backward, in the opposite direction, immediately cutting off the thread!
So,before starting work check:
- correctness of the tension of the upper and lower threads (in the needle and in the shuttle);
- fabric tension in the hoop;
- the position of the lever foot;
- set the stitch length slider to 0.
Move the fabric in the embroidery needle under the needle, lower the presser foot lever, turning the flywheel towards you with your right hand, pierce the fabric with a needle and, holding the lower thread with the needle, pull it up.
Fix the beginning of the line with several needle strikes, without moving the fabric, that is, making punctures almost at the same point. Cut the threads with small scissors.
Try stitching in a straight line, making parallel lines, spirals, achieving a uniform, beautiful stitch, not beyond the lines of the printed pattern.
Work patiently until you acquire the appropriate skills. Need a coordinated work of the hands and feet, but this does not immediately work!
Quickly working with your feet and slowly moving the hoop will get a small, frequent stitch. Quickly moving the frame and slowly legs - get large, long stitches.
remember, thatthe beauty of your embroiderydirectly depends on your accuracy, the accuracy of the pattern, the accuracy of your stitches, the applied seams, stitches, the beauty of the threads used.
Always a simple pattern of embroidery is much more interesting, looks nicer in the material!
And we all know how embroidery can enrich, ennoble your product and improve and even correct figure flaws.
Main stitches of machine embroidery
With the machine, you can perform many seams hand embroidery, but much faster and easier than with your hands.
The main seams include a stitch and a smooth roller (cordone).
Stitches are the easiest type of embroidery: a simple stitch, fork, loops, spiral, embankment.
Simple line -This is the most frequently used line in embroidery.May be self-embroidered.
These are small, identical, even stitches with a length of only 1-1.5 mm. A simple line is cut out the lines of the embroidery pattern, fill the space inside any fragments of embroidery, make the flooring to increase the embroidery volume by the satin stitch, create shadows during tone-based embroidery, embroidery of portraits.
The seams “vilyushka”, “eight”, “helix”, “embankment” are also made with small, identical stitches, eyelets.
Smooth roller "cordon"also very often used in embroidery. First you need to make a simple line along the contour of the pattern, then take a cotton liner No. 10-40 in one or double addition and, fixing the beginning of the thread with several blows, block it with frequent transverse, identical stitches, trying to make the needle punctures as close as possible to the liner threads . The overlap of the cushioning yarn must be so tight that it is completely invisible. And yet it is advisable to choose a cushioning thread in the color of embroidery.
Properly made satin roller should be smooth, convex, narrow and almost no wider than the cushioning thread (or 2 threads).
The cushioning thread gives a beautiful round shape roller., and when embroidered with festoons, the “richelieu” gives a strong, strong, beautiful edge. By the way, you can do bridges for durability with the braiding of the laying yarn and subsequent processing with a roller.
«Richelieu "-This is an openwork embroidery, which is a pattern of fabric, trimmed with a satin roller, whose circle surrounds the background. "Richelieu" is without a breed and with the brides.
Brides are air lines in embroidery "Richelieu".
"Richelieu" can be performed on the backgroundline grid
To perform a stitch net, you need a cloth with a plain weave. If the threads of the fabric are different in duck and on the basis of different thickness, then the calculation of the vyderga of the threads is made different so that the cells (holes) of the grid are square. After pulling out the threads, the netting of the remaining threads is wrapped around the embroidery thread, moving diagonally across the square, starting at the corner.
The smooth, semi-smooth, prismatic smooth surface - this is also very often used in embroidery. Carry out the smooth surface with neat, closely spaced stitches that are parallel to each other or under a slight slope.
There is still a kind of embroidery that I really like, it's embroidery and a thumb.You can have a beautiful thick thread or twisted cord, soutache lay out on the picture.
With a soutache. Pre-laid small loops with a soutache, fixing them with a manual stitch, and then made a stitch on the machine.
Many types of embroidery (stitches, smooth surface, openwork, “rishlelier”, guipure, appliqués, artistic smoothness) during their mastering and high-quality implementation unusually expand your artistic and creative possibilities.
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